The subject-matter of the present invention is anhydrous cosmetic compositions for cosmetic or pharmaceutical use.
Make-up compositions comprising a fatty phase are commonly used in cosmetics because of their good adhesion to the epidermis, their feeling of comfort, their protective capability and their ability to form a water-impermeable film. Anhydrous make-up products are generally provided in the form of a compact solid or else in the form of a cream. They can also be provided in the form of a fluid gel.
These compositions can constitute products for caring for the skin, including the scalp, and/or products for making up the skin, mucous membranes (lips or interior of the eyelids), semimucous membranes (lips) or keratinous fibres (hair, eyelashes, nails), or products for making up the body.
However, those skilled in the art still seek to improve the stability of products of this type.
Furthermore, these compositions, when they are applied to the skin, mucous membranes or semimucous membranes, can exhibit the disadvantage of transferring. This is understood to mean that the composition is capable of being deposited, at least partly, on certain substrates with which it is brought into contact, such as, for example, a glass, an item of clothing or the skin.
On being deposited, the said composition leaves a mark on the said substrate. The result of this is therefore a mediocre persistence of the composition on the skin or mucous membranes, resulting in the need to regularly renew its application.
Furthermore, the appearance of unacceptable marks on certain items of clothing and in particular on blouse collars can dissuade some people from using this type of make-up.
Another disadvantage of these compositions can reside in the problem of migration. This is because it has been found that some compositions had a tendency to spread inside the fine lines and/or wrinkles of the skin, in the case of foundations; into the fine lines which surround the lips, in the case of lipsticks; or into the folds of the eyelid, in the case of eyeshadows. In the case in particular of eyeshadows, the appearance of streaks in the make-up, generated by the movements of the eyelids, has also been found.
All these phenomena produce an unsightly effect which it is very clearly desirable to avoid.
With the aim of lessening these phenomena, provision has been made in WO 97/16157 to combine, with a volatile solvent, a polymeric emulsifier of organosiloxane type having at least one hydrophilic radical and at least one lipophilic radical.
However, if it is desired to introduce pigments into these products, a problem of homogeneity of the pigments can be encountered.
In all cases, the compositions of the prior art could be improved regarding both stability and homogeneity of the dispersion of the pigments.
The aim of the present invention is to provide an anhydrous composition which can exhibit good stability, little transfer and very good dispersion of the pigments and thus improved cosmetic properties.
It has now been discovered, unexpectedly and surprisingly, that, with the use of a specific surfactant, it was possible to obtain anhydrous compositions having not only good stability over time but also with respect to temperature variations and furthermore exhibiting excellent cosmetic properties, in particular a homogeneous dispersion of the pigments.
The subject-matter of the present invention is therefore an anhydrous composition, in particular for cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutical use, comprising at least one volatile solvent and at least one pigment, characterized in that it comprises at least one oxyalkylenated silicone substituted at the xcex1 and xcfx89 positions.
The invention also relates to a process for the non-therapeutic treatment of the skin and/or of the scalp, in particular a make-up process, which comprises applying, to the skin or mucous membranes and/or to the scalp, a composition as defined above.
The anhydrous composition according to the invention is preferably particularly stable.
The anhydrous composition according to the invention is preferably particularly homogeneous, making possible a uniform and homogeneous make-up.
Preferably, the anhydrous composition according to the invention additionally exhibits good resistance to transfer. Furthermore, when applied to the skin, it can exhibit the advantage of not migrating into the folds of the skin and/or the wrinkles of the face.
It has been found that the composition used according to the invention can be applied and spread easily in a homogeneous way without leaving a feeling of greasiness and can exhibit good cosmetic properties. The film obtained can also exhibit a light texture and remain comfortable to wear throughout the day.
Furthermore, the composition according to the invention can have good sensory qualities, in particular great ease of application, comfort, softness, good mattness and good covering power, uniformity and hold.
The compositions of the invention are anhydrous compositions. The term xe2x80x9canhydrous compositionxe2x80x9d is understood to mean a composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 2% of water, more preferably less than 1% of water. Most preferably still, the composition does not comprise water at all. The compositions of the invention are preferably devoid of polyvalent alcohols, that is to say of alcohols comprising at least two OH groups, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol or sorbitol.
In this application, silicone is understood to denote, in accordance with what is generally accepted, all organosilicon polymers or oligomers
with linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure,
of variable molecular weight,
obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes and
essentially composed of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to one another via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond xe2x89xa1Sixe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94Sixe2x89xa1), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-comprising radicals being directly bonded via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms.
The most common optionally substituted hydrocarbon-comprising radicals are alkyl radicals, in particular C1-C10 alkyl radicals and especially methyl radicals, fluoroalkyl radicals or aryl radicals, in particular the phenyl radical.
Thus, the oxyalkylenated silicone substituted at the xcex1 and xcfx89 positions which can be used for the composition according to the invention is an organosilicon polymer as defined above, with a linear structure, substituted at the two ends of the main chain by oxyalkylene groups connected to the Si atoms via a hydrocarbon-comprising group. Preferably, the main chain does not comprise a pendant oxyalkylene group.
The oxyalkylenated silicone substituted at the xcex1 and xcfx89 positions preferably corresponds to the following general formula (I): 
in which:
R=xe2x80x94(CH2)pxe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94(C2H4O)x(C3H6O)yR1
where:
R1 represents H, CH3 or CH2CH3,
p is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, x varies from 1 to 100 and y varies from 0 to 50,
it being possible for the (C2H4O) and (C3H6O) units to be randomly distributed or to be distributed by blocks,
the R2 radicals represent a C1-C3 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical,
5xe2x89xa6mxe2x89xa6300.
The oxyalkylenated silicone substituted at the xcex1 and xcfx89 positions used according to the present invention preferably corresponds to the general formula (I) in which all the R2 radicals are methyl radicals and:
ranges from 2 to 4,
x ranges from 3 to 100,
m ranges from 50 to 200.
More preferably, the average molecular weight of R ranges from 800 to 2600.
The ratio by weight of the C2H4O units with respect to the C3H6O units preferably ranges from 100:10 to 20:80.
This ratio is preferably approximately 42/58.
More preferably, R1 is the methyl group.
In an even more preferable way, the composition according to the invention comprises the oxyalkylenated silicone substituted at the xcex1 and xcfx89 positions of following formula: 
in which:
m=100,
R=(CH2)3xe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94(C2H4O)x(C3H6O)yxe2x80x94CH3, where x ranges from 3 to 100 and y ranges from 1 to 50, the ratio by weight of the C2H4O number to the C3H6O number being approximately 42/58 and the average molecular weight of R ranging from 800 to 1500.
The oxyalkylenated silicone substituted at the xcex1 and xcfx89 positions as defined above is used according to the invention in a proportion ranging from 0.1 to 20%, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 10%, by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
Mention may in particular be made, among commercial products which can comprise all or part of the oxyalkylenated silicones and which can be used according to the invention as emulsifier, of those sold under the names of xe2x80x9cAbil EM 97xe2x80x9d by the Company Goldschmidt or of xe2x80x9cKF 6009xe2x80x9d, xe2x80x9cX22-4350xe2x80x9d, xe2x80x9cX22-4349xe2x80x9d or xe2x80x9cKF 6008xe2x80x9d by the Company Shin Etsu.
The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one pigment.
The pigments can be present in the composition at a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition and preferably in a proportion of 2-15%. They can be white or coloured, inorganic and/or organic. Mention may be made, among inorganic pigments, of titanium, zirconium or cerium dioxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue or pearlescent agents, such as mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride, as well as coloured titanium oxide-coated mica. Mention may be made, among organic pigments, of carbon black and barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium lakes. The pigments can also exhibit hydrophobic surfaces or can be treated so as to render their surfaces hydrophobic; this treatment can be carried out according to methods known to a person skilled in the art; the pigments can in particular be coated with silicone compounds, such as PDMSs, and/or with polymers, in particular polyethylenes, and/or amino acids.
Mention may in particular be made, among coated pigments, of the pigments sold under the name of xe2x80x9cCovasilxe2x80x9d by the Company Wacker (pigments with triisostearoyl titanate).
The pigments, thus coated, can be incorporated into the composition according to the invention in a proportion of between 0.1 and 15% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile solvent. The term xe2x80x9cvolatile solventxe2x80x9d is understood to mean a compound which evaporates at room temperature (T=25xc2x0 C.). The volatile solvent preferably has a viscosity ranging from 0.5 to 25 centistokes at 25xc2x0 C. The volatile solvents which can be used according to the present invention can, for example, be linear or cyclic silicones, that is to say linear or cyclic polydiorganosiloxanes, which are optionally functionalized, or hydrocarbon-comprising paraffins or their mixtures.
The optionally functionalized linear polydiorganosiloxanes which can be used according to the invention correspond to the following general formula: 
in which:
X is CH3 or OH, and
n is an integer ranging from 0 to 2000.
Mention will in particular be made, among these, of the products sold under the name of xe2x80x9cAKxe2x80x9d by the Company Wacker, xe2x80x9cSFxe2x80x9d by the Company General Electric and xe2x80x9cAbilxe2x80x9d by the Company Goldschmidt, such as the product xe2x80x9cAbil 10xe2x80x9d.
Use may be made, as cyclic polydiorganosiloxanes according to the invention, alone or as a mixture, of the cyclomethicones of formula: 
in which:
n is an integer from 3 to 8.
Mention will be made, among particularly preferred cyclomethicones, of cyclotetradimethylsiloxane (n=4), cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (n=5), and cyclohexadimethylsiloxane (n=6).
Use may in particular be made of the products sold under the names of xe2x80x9cDC Fluid 244xe2x80x9d, xe2x80x9cDC Fluid 245xe2x80x9d, xe2x80x9cDC Fluid 344xe2x80x9d and xe2x80x9cDC Fluid 345xe2x80x9d by the Company Dow Corning.
Other cyclomethicones which can be used according to the invention are those sold under the names of xe2x80x9cAbil K4xe2x80x9d by the Company Goldschmidt; under the names of xe2x80x9cSilbione 70045 V2xe2x80x9d and of xe2x80x9cSilbione Oil 70045 V5xe2x80x9d by the Company Rhone-Poulenc; and under the names of xe2x80x9cvolatile Silicone 7158xe2x80x9d and of xe2x80x9cVolatile Silicone 7207xe2x80x9d by the Company Union Carbide.
The volatile solvents can also be paraffins with straight or branched hydrocarbon-comprising chains having from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 20 carbon atoms. These solvents are, for example, decane, dodecane, tetradecane, tridecane or C8-C20 isoparaffins, such as, for example, those disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 3,439,088 and U.S. Pat. No. 3,818,105. The preferred paraffins according to the present invention are, for example, those having a molecular weight ranging from 160 to 180. They also preferably have a boiling point ranging from 105 to 320xc2x0 C. The paraffins again preferably have a viscosity of less than or equal to 20 cSt (centistokes) at 25xc2x0 C. Such paraffins are sold, for example, by Exxon under the trade name xe2x80x9cIsoparsxe2x80x9d.
The volatile solvent used in the compositions according to the invention is generally present in the compositions of the invention at a content ranging from 0.5 to 80% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably at a content ranging from 5 to 80%.
Use is preferably made of volatile silicone oils and more preferably of cyclomethicones.
The compositions according to the invention can also comprise non-volatile fatty substances.
Mention may be made, among non-volatile fatty substances, of non-volatile oils, pasty fatty substances, or vegetable, mineral, animal and/or synthetic gums and waxes, the synthetic gums and waxes comprising silicone fatty substances.
The compositions according to the invention can also comprise non-volatile oils. These oils preferably have a viscosity ranging from 0.5 to 1,000,000 centistokes, more preferably ranging from 25 to 600,000 centistokes, at 25xc2x0 C. Examples of such oils are essential oils, esters, glycerol esters of fatty acids, fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their mixtures. Examples of esters which are suitable for the compositions according to the invention are acetylglycerides or octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols; castor oil, lanolin and its derivatives, palm oil, olive oil, soybean oil or cereal germ oils.
Examples of oils which are also suitable for the present invention are non-volatile paraffins, such as polyisobutene, mineral oils, polydecene, squalane or liquid petrolatum.
These oils are preferably present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1 to 80% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.1 to 50%.
The compositions according to the invention can also comprise waxes.
Mention may be made, as waxes which can be used in the invention, of waxes of animal origin, such as lanolin, beeswax, spermaceti or lanolin derivatives, such as lanolin alcohols, hydrogenated, hydroxylated or acetylated lanolin, lanolin fatty acids and acetylated lanolin alcohol; waxes of vegetable origin, such as carnauba, candelilla, kapok, ouricury, rice, hydrogenated jojoba, esparto or japan wax or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes or cocoa butter; mineral waxes, for example paraffin, montan, lignite or petrolatum waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite; or synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and linear esters resulting from the reaction of a saturated C10 to C40 carboxylic acid and of a saturated C10 to C40 alcohol, such as myristyl myristate. Use may also be made of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, calcium lanolates or stearates, castor oil, palm oil, coconut oil, sunflower oil or hydrogenated coconut oil.
The waxes can be present in the compositions according to the invention generally at a content which can range up to 40% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition and more preferably up to 20%.
The pasty fatty compounds can be defined using at least one of the following physicochemical properties:
a viscosity of 0.1 to 40 Paxc2x7s (1 to 400 poises), preferably 0.5 to 25 Paxc2x7s, measured at 40xc2x0 C. with a Contraves TV rotary viscometer equipped with an MS-r3 or MS-r4 rotor at a frequency of 60 Hz,
a melting point of 25-70xc2x0 C., preferably 25-55xc2x0 C.
The compositions of the invention can also comprise alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl dimethicones, such as, for example, the product sold under the name of xe2x80x9cAbil Wax 2440xe2x80x9d by the Company Goldschmidt.
The compositions according to the invention can also comprise silicone resins comprising a combination of the R3SiO1/2, R2SiO2/2, RSiO3/2 and SiO4/2 units, R representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.
Mention may be made, among silicone fatty substances, of poly(C1-C20)alkylsiloxanes, phenylated silicone oils, such as, for example, the phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name xe2x80x9cAbil AV 1000xe2x80x9d by Goldschmidt, and silicone gums and silicone waxes.
The silicone gums can correspond to the formula: 
in which:
R1, R2, R5 and R6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical and in particular a phenyl radical,
X is an alkyl radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,
n and p being chosen so as to confer, on the silicone gum, a viscosity greater than 100,000 mPaxc2x7s, preferably greater than 500,000 mPaxc2x7s.
Generally, n and p can take values from 0 to 5000, preferably from 0 to 3000.
Mention may be made, as silicone gum which can be used according to the invention, of those for which:
the R1 to R6 and X substituents represent a methyl group, p=0 and n=2700, such as that sold under the name SE30 by the company General Electric,
the R1 to R6 and X substituents represent a methyl group, p=0 and n=2300, such as that sold under the name AK 500000 by the company Wacker,
the R1 to R6 substituents represent a methyl group, the X substituent represents a hydroxyl group, p=0 and n=2700, as a 13% solution in cyclopentasiloxane, such as that sold under the name Q2-1401 by the company Dow Corning,
the R1 to R6 substituents represent a methyl group, the X substituent represents a hydroxyl group, p=0 and n=2700, as a 13% solution in polydimethylsiloxane, such as that sold under the name Q2-1403 by the company Dow Corning,
the R1, R2, R5, R6 and X substituents represent a methyl group and the R3 and R4 substituents represent a phenyl group, such that the molecular weight of the compound is 600,000, such as that sold under the names xe2x80x9c761xe2x80x9d or xe2x80x9cMirasil C-DPDMxe2x80x9d by the company Rhxc3x4ne-Poulenc.
These fatty substances can in particular be chosen in a way varied by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or of texture. They are preferably used at a content of less than or equal to 7% by weight with respect to the total weight of the emulsion, in order to retain the advantageous properties of the emulsion used according to the invention.
Mention may be made, among other fat-soluble adjuvants which can be incorporated in the composition, of lipophilic U.V. screening agents, lipophilic vitamins, antioxidants and fragrances, or ceramides.
The composition according to the invention can also comprise a particulate phase which can comprise, in addition to the pigments already mentioned above, pearlescent agents and/or fillers commonly used in cosmetic compositions.
The fillers, which can be present in the composition in a proportion of 0-20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0-10%, can be inorganic or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, teflon, starch, natural mother-of-pearl, boron nitride, microspheres, such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), or microsponges, such as polytrap (Dow Corning). Use is preferably made of spherical fillers with a size of less than 25 xcexcm, such as polyethylene powders, nylon powders, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls from Toshiba) or silica microspheres, it being possible for these fillers to contribute to improving the non-transfer properties of the compositions of the invention.
The composition according to the invention can additionally comprise a cosmetically, pharmaceutically or hygienically acceptable medium. It can then comprise any additive commonly used in the cosmetics, pharmaceutical or hygiene field, such as antioxidants, colorants, fragrances, essential oils, preservatives, cosmetic active principles, moisturizers, vitamins, sphingolipids or fat-soluble polymers, in particular hydrocarbon-comprising polymers, such as polybutene, polyalkylenes, polyacrylates and silicone polymers compatible with fatty substances.
These additives can be present in the composition in a proportion of 0-10% by weight.
Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds and/or their amount so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition.
The compositions according to the invention can be provided in the form of a cosmetic product and in particular in the form of a care product for the body and/or the face and/or the scalp or alternatively of a make-up product, in particular a foundation, a face powder, an eyeshadow, an eyeliner, a mascara or a lipstick.
They can also be provided in a non-coloured form, optionally comprising cosmetic active principles.
The compositions according to the invention can be provided in the form of a fluid gel or of a stick.
The compositions according to the invention are preferably provided in a fluid form and have a Brookfield viscosity, measured on the LVDV model, with a 3 spindle, at a speed of 60 rev/min and at approximately 25xc2x0 C., ranging from 8 poises to 50 poises.
The invention also relates to the use of an oxyalkylenated silicone substituted at the xcex1 and xcfx89 positions as defined above in an anhydrous composition comprising pigments and a volatile solvent with the aim of improving the dispersion of the said pigments in the said composition.
The invention also relates to the use of an oxyalkylenated silicone substituted at the xcex1 and xcfx89 positions as defined above in an anhydrous composition comprising pigments and a volatile solvent with the aim of improving the homogeneity of the said composition.